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Everything you wanted to know about the most ambiguous decoration of our time!
Many perceive the choker exclusively as an element of teenage fashion from the nineties and nothing more! But in fact, the choker is one of the most ancient jewelry with a rich history and many diverse meanings and subtexts that have changed over time.If you are sure that the choker is just a plastic bauble, we invite you on a short trip to the past, which can radically change your mind!
16th century: golden mountains
Portrait of a woman. Lucas Cranach the Elder, 1526. Portrait of a Lady. Hans Baldung approx. 1530.I must say that chokers appeared in ancient times, and the value of the accessory was very different: among the Mayan tribe, the choker symbolized the power of the leader, and in antiquity the choker collars were an attribute of slaves!
But in the Renaissance, all these subtleties did not matter - the choker came into fashion as an ornament for the rich. Massive gold necklaces decorated with pearls and precious stones tightly wrapped around the owner’s neck and from afar indicated that the lady had no shortage of material goods.
XVIII century: nude shy
Portrait of Countess Ekaterina Ivanovna Golovkina. Louis Tokke, 1757. A woman in blue. Thomas Gainsborough, late 1770s-early 1780s.The Age of Enlightenment convinced even the most respectable ladies that there was nothing wrong with the deep and frank neckline. Given that high hairstyles were also in fashion, visually the neck and open chest seemed unnecessarily naked, in the literal and figurative senses. Chokers came to the rescue, and black velvet ribbons were especially popular. Such a velvet could be very simple, or could be decorated with pearls or a pendant.
XIX century: courtesans and ballerinas
1863, Olympia, Eduard ManetOddly enough, but in these times, black velvet chokers turned into a mark of courtesans, the famous “Olympia” Manet is a good example of this. But, for example, in the paintings of Edgar Degas you can often find chokers as an accessory for ballerinas. Of course, this did not mean that they were all frivolous, but at the same time there were many among them who were looking for a rich patron ...
Towards the end of the century, an unusual thing happened: the Princess of Wales, the future Queen Alexandra of Denmark, introduced fashion chokers and unusual wide beads that hide her neck to the very chin. The reason for this choice of the princess was not a whim, but a physical disability - in childhood, she underwent surgery that left a scar on her neck.
Alexandra Danish, Creative CommonsThe "dark past" of the choker is left behind, now it was worn by everyone! Moreover, the variety of styles has become truly unusual: from familiar ribbons to complex bead weaves.
XX century: dog collars and mass love
books.google.comThat is how the chokers again dubbed in the West dubbed in the West - however, the fashionistas had nothing against such an unsightly definition. Simple black velvet ribbons decorated with rhinestones, beads, semiprecious stones were popular again.
In the 90s there was a real choker boom: they were worn by absolutely everything, from Hollywood stars to schoolgirls from the outback. It was then that affordable and extremely cheap plastic chokers appeared. It is difficult to say what was the reason for such popular adoration, but the fact remains that chokers became popular not only among the masses, but also in various subcultures.
XXI century: chic, shine, beauty
Photo: Shiatzy Chen, Zara, Fashion Z
In 2016, chokers returned to fashion among the trends from the 90s, but it was in our era that diversity reached its zenith! High fashion has introduced the world to rich, sophisticated, extravagant chokers, many of which are comparable to works of art, the mass market, in turn, regularly supplies jewelry for every taste and budget, well, those who are engaged in needlework and just love handmade make it fun DIY chokers.
How to make a choker with your own hands: a step-by-step master class from BurdaStyle.ru!
Choker: Pros and Cons
So, summing up our historical tour, it should be noted that the choker really has a number of not the most noble semantic shades - for someone, a direct resemblance to collars for animals and slaves, as well as a connection with the outfit of a courtesan, may not be the most disposable characteristic! On the other hand, a choker is first of all a necklace, moreover, precious and beautifully decorated, so perhaps the opponents of this accessory should just pay attention to its other styles.
What and how to wear a choker today?
If you are already eager to add a choker to your collection of accessories, there are several rules that should be considered when choosing a jewelry:
Photo: Free people, J. Crew
- a choker is not suitable for those who have a short neck by nature, but an exception may be a choker with hanging elements, chains and pendants - they will visually “stretch” the silhouette;
- never put on a choker over clothes, only on bare skin. It is not by chance that the ladies of the Enlightenment combined the neckline and chokers, this is the most spectacular combination! The combination of a choker and a V-neckline works great;
Photo: Nasty Gal, Asos
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- it is still believed that the choker and business style are poorly compatible, but this is only a matter of style: an elegant choker chain will look great with a shirt or a strict blouse;
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- simple chokers-ribbons sewn from the same fabric as the top or dress look very impressive;
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